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Post by SkyFire on Feb 28, 2010 23:04:52 GMT
Good thinking, on or off is all thats needed as I think most real turntables only went one way. Just turn the power off when it aligns with with the track you want, (might need to turn the power off a bit before it aligns, depending on how free moving it all is) otherwise it might overhoot the required track a bit.
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Andy
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Post by Andy on Mar 1, 2010 18:08:57 GMT
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Post by SkyFire on Mar 2, 2010 0:49:48 GMT
Moving the motors under the baseboard has improved the look of the railway too. No ideas on what I would do for the switches, but think I would get a switch holder. As to a name, umm no ideas right now. I'm trying to work out how to do the frame and legs for my model railway right now, it has to be able to be taken apart as the room the railway is in, is also a guest room.
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Andy
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Post by Andy on Mar 10, 2010 20:09:31 GMT
Hey guys & gals I just wanted to run this past you people to see if my wiring plan is correct, I’ve never got this far in a railway build, last time I had a 6ft by 4ft HO gauge, which was just 3 oval tracks. So all this wiring is new to me.
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Post by SkyFire on Mar 10, 2010 23:38:38 GMT
Looks ok to me, only thing to watch is to keep the resistor well clear of anything that can be affected by heat and to make sure you have a biggish one, (as in watts) as it could get very warm to hot. I think I would go for 12 volt globes instead of 6 volt, but still have a resistor to dim them a bit, (less chance of blowing the globe, which I have done a few times).
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Andy
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Post by Andy on Mar 14, 2010 20:02:22 GMT
@skyfire what voltage resistor would you recommend? I’ve ordered a 12v globes from china. On another note I’ve managed to solder my feed wires to my track (no easy task). After learning not to touch the metal end of a soldering iron , The Iron I’ve got at the moment is rubbish it doesn’t keep heated properly, the handle gets way to hot. Also managed to get the feed wires the wrong way round so when the train goes to the turn table it shorts out, easy to fix but just annoying.
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Post by SkyFire on Mar 14, 2010 22:52:24 GMT
Resistors don't have a voltage rating, (they can be used on any voltage). I would go for a 5 Watt one, this should be able to take the load without going poof, but remember it will get bloody hot as the way a resistor works is to lose the excess current as heat!!!! Bugger about the wiring. Try looking for a variable temp soldering iron, as they work well in soldering to the track and the handle stays & nice cool.
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Andy
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Post by Andy on Mar 24, 2010 17:23:54 GMT
Was like charismas this today, got home and my new steam train came, a 45XX 2-6.2BR early crest made by dapol. My freight trucks came and my motor for my turntable finally arrived. They recommend that you use a controller like how you would with track. However I’m sticking to my plan of the straight off the 12v DC then though the switch and using a resistor to knock the power from 12V to 6V
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Post by SkyFire on Mar 24, 2010 23:15:17 GMT
That resistor is going to get bloody hot, a controller would work a lot better, I think.
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Andy
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Post by Andy on Mar 25, 2010 19:51:45 GMT
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Post by SkyFire on Mar 25, 2010 22:55:16 GMT
I would use parallel wiring, if you daisy chain, (series wiring) them, when 1 blows they would all go out, with parallel wiring, if 1 bulb goes only that 1 goes out. Run 2 bus wires each side of where you want the lamp posts making sure to have 1 positive and 1 negative and connect the wires from the lamp posts to them. The info on that page said they were suitable fro 12 v so no resistor should be needed.
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Andy
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Post by Andy on Apr 5, 2010 9:54:24 GMT
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Post by SkyFire on Apr 5, 2010 23:23:30 GMT
Looking very good and nice to see some nice clean wiring, instead pf the birds nest wiring a lot of model railways seem to have.
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Andy
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Post by Andy on Apr 20, 2010 20:57:43 GMT
Haven’t been by for a few days, been a bit busy with my Bismarck, I’m sick of light grey base coat paint, you think you have all the bits done then find you missed a bit. Anyway back to my railway build my new soldering iron has come; a battery operated one which is quite good allows more freedom with having a fat wire getting in the way. And has made better joins than the other one did so all my feed wires are now complete, the light is fitted in the water tower and under board wiring to that is complete.
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Post by SkyFire on Apr 21, 2010 1:29:27 GMT
Never though about a battery powered soldering iron, how long does the battery last and what type of 1 is it. I might have to look into 1, as I never seem to have a powerpoint where I need 1. Haven't started painting Bismarck yet, but will no doubt have the same problem with that grey paint. - LoL
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