[Andy]

After thinking the best way to attach a 00 gauge signal box to the baseboard and make it so I can access the wiring for the lighting easily, I’ve came up with a solution it can be seen in the picture below.



1: Glue some nuts to the building
2: Align the nuts with the baseboard
3: Drill the holes in the baseboard
4: Screw the bolts though the baseboard in to the glued nuts on the building.

[SkyFire]

A nice tip, it will be interesting to see how well the idea works.

[Andy]

Well I’ve attached the signal box to the baseboard, seems fairly strong. I guess the trick is not to over tighten the bolts else it could break the bond between the nut and the building.

[SkyFire]

How did you work out where to drill the holes in the baseboard.

[Andy]

I screwed some bolts in the nuts then placed it on the board and drew around the bolts the drilled the middle of the circle outline. With a bit of skill (more luck) they align perfectly. As a backup plan I bought some repair washers which are 3 cm wide but had a hole just big enough for a thread of the bolt. Which would allow for a bigger hole to be drilled if it didn’t align correctly.

[SkyFire]

Something I might have to think about, once I get my layout up off the floor.

[berth44]

Hello, this has been a quiet subject for a while folks...Anyhoo,reading the above made me think of something that I did with my Arizona model. I thought of a way to allow me to go between a fixed hull and a waterline model at any given time . Now,you might think, how is this related to the above??
Well,it's actually a wee bit more difficult because the retaining 'bolt' (in this case, it's a wood dowel)is actually on the inside of the 'upper hull' and cannot be seen. Two of these were attached to this part, forward and aft,getting the correct height of these 'dowels' being a 'hit and miss afair' was very difficult in it's own right!
Anyhoo, here's how I find exactly (well almost) where I should drill the holes in the bottom hull piece for the retaining 'self tapping screws' (in this case) that are to be screwed into these two dowels...a black marker! (or whatever colour you have handy)
By marking the bottom of each 'dowel' with the 'marker', then temporarily bringing the two parts of the hull together, (quickly before it dries!) there should be a deposit of 'ink' on the opposite component,this gives you your spot to drill the holes! (A dab of paint on these wooden dowels or metal bolts, will do the same job,better really as it does not dry as quickly,) it worked for me!!
And another wee tip before I went, I struggled to get my Humbrol glue 'thingy'.... the blue one with the hollow metal tube dispenser to actually dispense glue, it was very blocked!.....this is a common problem with these,so I usually run a length of wire through to clean it after use,but I forgot!!
I used a drill,lengths of wire but it remained blocked,then the light went on!!,this is not MY idea,I had read it on a 'Forum',by simply heating the 'tube' up with a gas lighter, (not held in your fingers..burny burny!!)the glue inside is burned off, it infact becomes a small 'flame thrower' emitting a small flame from it's ends,( in this case, one end only,I run a length of wire up to the blockage) and a puff of black sooty smoke...clear and ready to be used sir!!!!.......Dave

[bluedot0]

My last ship build, San Francisco, was done with a touch of the "alternative method" Dave.

When you first explained to me how you had undertaken your Arizona build, I did likewise to the San Francisco, only with her being somewhat smaller, I only screwed the superstructures to the deck, much cleaner and secure than glue.......Phil