[SkyFire]

Ahh ok. Sounds like your going well on the build of the layout. Good luck with the degree.

[Andy]

Well tested the fitting on the motor, managed to drill the hole without taking the track up, drilled down the locking pin hole with a 0.5 drill bit, then drilled from the reverse side of the board with a 7mm, just waiting for my the mounting bracket and proper cables to fix it in place.

[SkyFire]

Well done on a clever bit of drilling.

Have a K, (karma) for some clever drilling.

[Andy]

Well here’s the latest photo, I’ve decided to redo the engine shed area because I’ve bought a double engine shed in 1 and the space between the tracks is too great. Instead of 2 tracks coming off the turntable I’m going to have a set of points off the turntable then the 2 tracks in to the shed. Also going to try and solder the power cables on the track. Still waiting for my PL-34 wires to test my under the board motor for the points near the signal box.

[SkyFire]

Interesting idea of a set of points off the turntable.

When soldering keep the iron fairly hot, (the rails act as very good heat sinks) and of course keep things clean. Also tin the rail where your going to solder the wire too 1st, I find it helps.

[Andy]

Tested my under board motor works really well, going to replace all with under board ones, still got a bit of wiring to do. Fit a turn table motor, car park lights for the station and signal box.

[SkyFire]

Nice neat wiring, unlike some model railway wiring I've seen out here, which is worse than a birds nest.

Good to hear the under baseboard motors are a big success.

[Andy]

Been busy on my project today took out all the surface motors. And fitted all but 1 the under board mounting brackets, because it’s too close to the boards frame which means in going to have to cut a square out the side of the frame. Also I managed to break a straight bit of track , which is a bit of a pain cause I only have spare curved pieces and it’s a bit I’ll have to remove several pieces to fit it. So I’ve had to order a new bit. Also fitted all the engine shed track back in place. I couldn’t manage to fit the points in, because of the space available. But I would have had to refit the track anyway to fit the shed & looks more parallel now.

[SkyFire]

Good work on the points, how did you break the piece of track. Also good you managed to engine shed back in place.

I just need to dig out 1 more section of track from the back of a cupboard and my Ho layout will be going again, then I can see if that Virgin Pendalino will go all the way round the layout. Hopefully it will make it round.

[Andy]

When I was drilling from under the board the drill got stuck and then pushed the points up, didn't break them but ripped the rail from the sleepers. But I’ve replaced it now, just bought some trees on e-bay for £1.99. just going to start to cut the side of the board to fit the last mounting plate.

[SkyFire]

Hate it when the drill jams, then goes again very quickly.

[Andy]

Well I’ve managed to cut out the section on the frame, looks very weak at the edge now looks like only 4mm. Might have to put a metal bracket on it to keep its strength. Hopefully it’s a big enough space to fit a PL 10E in. on that note how hot can a under board motor get? Is there a certain space I need between the motor and the wood?

[SkyFire]

I think they shouldn't get hot at all as they only operate for a brief moment while throwing the points over.

But if they points jam, think they could heat up, at least until the coils burn out, then they cool down, but then they need replacing.

Never heard of a minumum distance from wood for something like that, thinking about it, some get screwed direct to wood and I have't heard of a layout catching fire from a points motor yet.

Doubt it would get hot enough to damage the wood, dunno about foam though.

[Andy]

I’ve done some more work on my railway but I’m stuck, I want to buy this www.modelrailshop.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Turntables___Drive_Kits__all_scales__65.html#aTTDN the n-gauge "N" Motorising Kit but it says that they recommend using double pole double throw switch to divert the power supply. What are they talking about ? And how would I link it in to my system. I have a gaugemaster controller which has a 2 x 12v D.C. at 1 amp each controlled which goes to the tracks, 1 x 16v A.C. at 1 amp uncontrolled and 1 x 12v D.C. at 1 amp uncontrolled. I don’t want to buy this then end up not being able to integrate it in to my railway.

[Andy]

Ok I think I’ve got it. A double pole double throw switch, allows the current to flow one way or the other allowing the turntable to turn clockwise or anti-clockwise. So can I use a Peco Lectrics PL-22 On - Off Switch and just wire the motor straight to the controller, with the other wire to the switch just to turn the turntable on and off. It don’t matter which way it turns.